What They Are
Beneath the Cappadocia plateau there are more than 200 underground complexes of varying size, carved from the same soft volcanic tuff as the above-ground cave houses and rock-cut churches. The largest and most visited are Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı, both in the area south of Nevşehir and Göreme.
These complexes were not permanent homes but refuges — carved to provide shelter during periods of invasion and instability. The Cappadocian plateau was on the route between Mesopotamia and the Mediterranean world, which meant it was subject to raids and military campaigns throughout its history. The underground cities provided shelter for entire communities, including livestock, for periods of weeks or months.
Derinkuyu: The Deeper of the Two
Derinkuyu is the larger and more impressive of the two main underground cities. It extends to approximately 85 metres below the surface on 8 floors, and the excavated sections accessible to visitors cover several of these floors. At its estimated maximum capacity, the city could shelter around 20,000 people, though this figure represents a theoretical maximum and the full extent of the complex is not completely mapped.
The interior features ventilation shafts (the largest is 55 metres deep and serves as both airshaft and well), large round millstones that were rolled across the tunnel entrances from the inside to seal the passages, storage rooms, wine and oil presses carved directly from the rock, stabling for animals, and a large church on the bottom accessible floors with a distinctive barrel-vaulted ceiling.
Kaymaklı: Better for Claustrophobics
Kaymaklı is approximately 20 kilometres north of Derinkuyu, closer to Nevşehir. It's not as deep as Derinkuyu (4 accessible floors rather than 8), but the floor plan is more complex and some visitors find it more interesting architecturally. The passages are wider and better lit than at Derinkuyu.
Because Kaymaklı is somewhat smaller, it's sometimes less crowded than Derinkuyu, and some guides prefer to take smaller groups here for a less pressured experience.
Visiting Them
Both cities are accessible by dolmuş from Nevşehir, by rental car, or on an organised tour from Göreme. Most tour agencies offer a half-day tour that combines both cities, which makes geographic sense given their proximity. Visiting independently requires a car or the local bus system, which is less convenient.
Entry fees for both cities are reasonable by European standards. The sites open at 08:00 and close at 19:00 in summer. Allow 1-1.5 hours per site. The passages are low (average person needs to duck frequently), can be crowded in peak season, and are completely underground — those with claustrophobia should research the specific conditions before visiting.